JAGUAR. ®. CS. PRODUCT DATA SHEET N – SEPTEMBER IDENTIFICATION. Chemical Name: GUAR GUM DERIVATIVE. C.T.F.A./I.N.C.I. Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference | Jaguar® CS by Solvay acts as a protective, repairing, thickening, texturing, conditioning and moisturizing agent. It h.
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Cationic polymers are widely used in shampoo formulations to provide conditioning benefits such as better hair combing, manageability, frizz control and higher resistance to damage. It has been designed to help formulators create shampoos that deliver effective conditioning while providing a differentiating sensorial experience compared to that offered by conventional conditioning polymers, such as high molecular weight cationic guar derivatives and polyquaternium polymers PQ In this study, the conditioning performance and sensorial attributes of Jaguar C are determined and compared to those of conventional conditioning systems.
Cationic hydroxyethyl celluloses INCI: Polyquaternium were supplied by either Amerchol Corporation Ucare, trade name or Rhodia Polycare, trade name. Both virgin dark brown Caucasian hair and regular bleached Caucasian hair were used. The shampoos were prepared as follows: Continue stirring while sprinkling in the cationic polymer. Once the polymer is completely dispersed, adjust pH between 4 and 5 for cationic guar derivatives and above 10 for PQ polymers to ease polymer hydration.
Finally, adjust pH to 6. For 2-in-1 shampoos, the dimethicone emulsion was added after the introduction of SLES surfactant. Polymer substantivity and build-up: Shampooed tresses were first exposed to a 0.
Lambda Bio 40 was used to measure the dye characteristic response at nm, from which one can easily deduce the dye uptake expressed in microgram of dye per gram of hair.
For build-up investigations, the dye uptake was measured after 5, 10 and up to 15 consecutive washing cycles. Combing force versus displacement curves were obtained in the process. Total combing work corresponding to the integral of this signal was extracted.
Jaguar C13S, C14S, C-17
The difference in total work required to comb the hair tress before and after treatment was deduced and generally expressed as a percentage of reduction of combing work. Two methods were used to measure silicone deposition. The first method used X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy which is a non-destructive method carried out directly on the treated hair tresses.
The procedure was as follows: After 24 hour mixing, the supernatant was recovered.
However, its concentration is generally too low to allow trustworthy detection and it must be transferred to an evaporating dish where THF is totally evaporated. The amount of dimethicone deposited on hair, Q, expressed in ppm? The deposition yield is calculated as follows:.
JAGUAR C 13 S | Solvay
A minimum of 2 hair tresses were used for each formulation to calculate an average amount of silicone deposited on hair and an average deposition yield. Hair volume and hair bounce: The measurements were outsourced to a private research institute. The hair tresses were obtained from De Meo Bros. Each tress is about 16 g in mass and about 25 cm in length. The tresses were shaped using a mild perming process.
Five hair tresses were used for each formulation. The measurements combined the use of Instron equipment and image analysis. The measurements are based on a modified method originally due to Garcia and Wolfram. For each hair tress, four experimental cycles were carried out, each consisting of a combing step jqguar remove any tangles, jjaguar by 3 passes through the confining ring of Instron equipment, which allows for measuring the work compression energy required to pull a tress of given volume through a ring of given diameter.
After each of the 3 passes through the ring, the average volume of the hair tress is measured using a software driven CCD camera which captures ajguar different profiles of the vertically mounted rotating tress in one minute. During each of the four different cycles, the first pull referred to as Pass 1 is always considered as an initialisation pass that erases the combing and compression history of the tress.
For this reason, the compression energy and volume values of Pass 1 are not used in any calculation. On the other hand, Pass 2 is used as the reference pass to determine the average volume and compression energy jaghar a hair tress. Pairs of virgin dark brown Caucasian hair tresses of 10 g net in mass were distributed to four expert panellists skilled in evaluating sensorial and conditioning properties delivered by shampoos.
Each panellist was asked to evaluate each pair of shampoos giving a total of 8 evaluations for each shampoo in a given pair. Figure 1 shows the anionic red dye uptake on hair hence the level of deposited cationic polymer with which the red dye interacts when hair has been treated with the Jaguar Cbased shampoo. As of the first application, c13a is a large increase in the signal, which shows immediate deposition of the active on the surface of hair. Jaguar C therefore significantly deposits on hair with a single shampoo application.
As the number of applications increases, the signal quickly plateaus to reach a constant level. This shows that the polymer does not build-up with repeated usage and hence does not weigh hair down with multiple washing cycles. As for the conditioning benefits, Figure 2 shows how Jaguar C provides wet combing reduction x13s to those of polyquaternium polymers Ucare LR and JR at the same polymer dosage. Aside from its direct conditioning benefits, Jaguar C is also able to deposit silicone from 2-in-1 shampoos on both Caucasian and Jzguar hair as shown in Figure 3.
First, we point out that it c13d a better deposition efficiency than the polyquaternium polymers tested and a performance level similar to that of polyquaternium Within the guar-based chemistry, this difference in deposition efficiency may simply result maguar the difference in molecular weights between these polymers: Jzguar, Jaguar C provides an excellent alternative to these jaguad conditioning polymers, because it offers differentiating sensorial attributes and improved hair body and bounce properties.
Hair c13e measurements carried out by the private research institute Fig. However, as the number of cycles becomes too large, Jaguar C13S eventually brings the volume back down, causing the hair tress to weigh down most certainly because of the much larger molecular weight of this high conditioning polymer.
Analysing the compression energy data also shows that Jaguar C provides hair bounce and that hair bounce is not affected by multiple washing cycles. Note that these hair volume and bounce results are consistent with the data generated with the red dye method, which showed that Jaguar C does not build up with repeated usage. Finally, the sensorial benefits provided by Jaguar C have been assessed on dark brown Caucasian hair and compared to those of Jaguar C17, Polycare PQ and a polymer-free formulation.
The panellists were asked to assess both foam and hair feel properties. The parameters quantitatively scored are shown in Figure 5. Jaguar C provides foam richness enhancement against the polymer-free formulation. Foam appearance is scored qualitatively: Foam is nicer, whiter and shinier with Jaguar polymers. Thus, the lower molecular weight of Jaguar C does not seem to negatively impact the foam attributes usually rated as excellent for Jaguar polymers.
Further, in the rinsing, some differences between Jaguar C and the polymer-free formulation are perceived. While gliding comes back to the initial level for the polymer-free formulation, Jaguar C provides a slight increase in hair glide, yet not as extensively as Polycare and Jaguar C Thus, the Jaguar Cbased shampoo allows for cleansing and conditioning hair while keeping a feel similar to that provided by a cleansing shampoo that does not contain any polymer.
The feel is not heavy, and hair is still squeaky yet conditioned. In conclusion, Jaguar C is an ideal compromise as a conditioning polymer to make cost-effective shampoos that still deliver satisfactory conditioning benefits, volumising effects with a pleasant lather and hair feel. It is particularly suitable for everyday use, thin hair and volumising shampoos. Marcel Dekker, New York, Deposition from Conditioning Shampoo: Optimizing Coacervate Formation, in Hair Care: An expert in skin biology and in the mastering of plants and biotechnologies for more than 30 years, this independent French group provides major names in cosmetic and dermo-cosmetic industry with patented and effective active May 15 — Fri.
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The deposition yield is calculated as follows: Results and discussion Figure 1 shows the anionic red dye uptake on hair hence the level of deposited cationic polymer with which the red dye interacts when hair has been treated with the Jaguar Cbased shampoo. Conclusion In conclusion, Jaguar C is an ideal compromise as a conditioning polymer to make cost-effective shampoos that still deliver satisfactory conditioning benefits, volumising effects with a pleasant lather and hair feel.
JAGUAR C 13 S
References 1 Schueller R. Nov Protecting against blue light and more Nov Who protects hair and skin from the effects of urban living? Oct Who understands the grey-coverers, beauty-lovers and trend-pioneers? We’ve been approved by approved business.